August, in San Pancrazio, is the month in which the destiny of every Merlot parcel is decided. The choice of picking time is never arbitrary: it depends on the constant monitoring of two key parameters — sugar content and total acidity — together with the organoleptic assessment of phenolic ripeness in the skins and seeds.
Rosé: early harvest and white-style vinification on red grapes
For the Rosé, picking takes place ahead of full technological ripeness, when the sugar/acidity ratio is still shifted in favor of total acidity (indicative target: lower pH, higher TA), a condition that preserves the primary aromatic component — terpenes and varietal compounds responsible for floral and fruity notes.
In the winery, the short-maceration rosé vinification technique is used: the grapes are crushed and the must left in contact with the skins for a limited period (generally a few hours), just long enough to extract sufficient anthocyanins to define the color, without releasing excess tannins and polyphenols. This is followed by early draining off and fermentation at controlled temperature (typically 16–18°C), carried out in stainless steel to preserve freshness and primary aromatic profile. No oak aging: the wine is intended for consumption within the year following harvest.
Riserva: late harvest and maximizing phenolic ripeness
For the Merlot destined for the Riserva, the strategy is the opposite: the aim is to reach full phenolic ripeness, not just technological ripeness. This means monitoring not only sugar accumulation, but above all the ripening of skin and seed tannins, which must evolve from green, astringent tannins into soft, rounded ones — a process that requires additional time on the vine compared to the Rosé.
The later harvest results in higher sugar concentration (and consequently higher potential alcohol) and reduced total acidity, balanced by a richer polyphenolic structure. In the winery, vinification involves extended maceration (days, not hours) to maximize the extraction of color, tannins, and aromatic precursors, followed by malolactic fermentation to soften the acid profile. Aging then takes place in wood — barrique or large cask, depending on the winery's protocol — for an extended period, allowing micro-oxygenation, integration of tertiary notes, and stabilization of the tannic structure.
Two protocols, one grape variety
The case of Merlot at La Badiola is a concrete example of how the same variety, on the same terroir, can generate completely divergent enological profiles based on two variables: the timing of harvest and the vinification protocol chosen. This is not a compromise, but two paths planned from the very start of the season, each optimized for the desired final result.
